Honda EU2000i Propane Conversion: Why I’ll Never Run Gasoline Again

The Problem: Honda EU2000i generators are legendary for being quiet and reliable, but they only run on gasoline. Storing gas in your RV is a pain. It goes bad. It smells. And your carb gets gummed up because you forgot to run the carb dry and let it sit for 6 months.

The Solution: Convert your Honda to run on propane using the Grenergy conversion kit. I did this on my early-model EU2000i (the one that other kits won’t even touch), and it’s been flawless.


Why This Matters

I bought my Honda EU2000i back in 2007. It’s been reliable for almost two decades. But I was tired of:

  • Storing gasoline in the camper
  • Dealing with stale fuel
  • Running the carb dry every time I stored it
  • Hauling gas cans around

I looked at replacing it with a Champion dual-fuel generator. They’re cheaper and run on propane. But when a friend got one, I realized how much louder they are. A few decibels really matters when you’re camping.

So I started looking for a way to convert my Honda to propane.

The Challenge: Early Model Honda

Here’s where it gets tricky. Honda made two versions of the EU2000i:

  • Version 1: Serial numbers BELOW EAAJ-2017305
  • Version 2: Everything after that

My serial number is EAAJ-1240xxx – Version 1.

Most propane conversion kits (Genconnex, Hutch Mountain) don’t support Version 1 generators. The carburetor design is different, and the kits simply won’t work.

That’s when I found Grenergy.

Why Grenergy Works (And Others Don’t)

Grenergy spent time figuring out why other conversion kits fail on early Honda generators. They identified two main problems:

Problem 1: Poor Venturi Effect

Most conversion manifolds don’t create enough vacuum to let the propane regulator adjust fuel flow properly. The engine runs lean or won’t run at all.

Grenergy’s Solution: A custom CNC-machined fuel plate adapter designed specifically to improve the venturi effect and airflow.

Problem 2: Case Vacuum Interference

The Honda’s enclosed case uses fans to cool the engine. This creates a vacuum inside the case – the same space where the air intake lives. This vacuum interferes with the propane system’s ability to regulate fuel.

Grenergy’s Solution: Install vents in the generator case to relieve the vacuum effect.

These two fixes are why Grenergy works on Version 1 Honda generators when other kits fail.

What’s In The Kit

Grenergy sends you everything you need. The attention to detail is impressive:

Core Components:

  • Custom CNC fuel plate adapter
  • High-pressure propane regulator
  • Demand regulator with adjustable flow
  • Vented generator cover (EU2200i style)
  • Fuel selector switch with professional decals

Quality Touches:

  • New intake bolts (Honda’s factory bolts are known to work loose)
  • New spark plug (even if you don’t need it)
  • High-quality rubber caps (thick, flexible, durable)
  • Pre-stripped wires for the switch
  • All necessary gaskets
  • Clear, professional installation stickers

You can tell these guys sweated the details.

The Installation

Difficulty Level: Intermediate. Not hard if you can follow instructions, but pay attention to details.

Time Required: 2-3 hours for most people

Tools Needed:

  • Basic socket set
  • Screwdrivers
  • Wire strippers (wires are pre-stripped, but nice to have)

Before You Start

Read the manual. Seriously. There’s good prep work in there, especially:

  • Checking and cleaning the spark arrestor (critical if your generator has hours on it)
  • Understanding the fuel system layout
  • Avoiding common installation mistakes

Watch Grenergy’s installation video. It shows you exactly where people tend to mess up.

Installation Steps (High Level)

I’m not going to duplicate Grenergy’s excellent instructions here. But the process is:

  1. Prep the generator (clean spark arrestor, drain old fuel)
  2. Remove the air filter housing
  3. Replace intake bolts
  4. Install the fuel plate adapter with new gaskets
  5. Mount the propane regulators
  6. Install the fuel selector switch
  7. Install case vents
  8. Reassemble and test

One Tip: I had one oil-soaked gasket that failed. Grenergy included spares – I used one and was good to go. Check your gaskets before you put it all back together.

The Results: Better Than Expected

First start: 3 pulls. My generator had been sitting for 6 months with the carb run dry. On gasoline, it normally takes 8-10 pulls after sitting. On propane? 3 pulls and it fired right up.

No adjustments needed. Grenergy’s manual says you’ll probably need to adjust the regulator, especially at altitude (I’m at 5,000 feet) or with early-model generators. Mine ran perfectly out of the box. No tweaking required.

ECO mode works great. I was running a 1,400W portable heater as a test load. The generator held 110V steady in ECO mode – way better than I expected.

Max output on propane: I pushed it to about 2,100W total load (1,400W heater + 700W space heater). It kept running but voltage dropped to 103V. Not ideal, but the overload protection should have kicked in earlier. For normal loads (1,500W or less), it’s flawless.

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Connecting to Your RV’s Propane System

I didn’t want to haul around 1-pound propane bottles. I wanted to run the generator off my RV’s propane system using the BBQ quick-connect.

First Attempt: Failed

I tried using my existing 5/16″ ID propane hose (the one I use for my Camp Chef griddle). Hooked it all up, went through the prime procedure, pulled the starter cord. Nothing. Tried again. Still nothing.

The Fix

I emailed Grenergy support that evening. Got a response in minutes.

The problem: 5/16″ hose doesn’t supply enough fuel volume for the generator.

The solution: Use 1/2″ ID propane hose.

I ordered a 1/2″ hose with quick-connect from Amazon, made another trip to the hardware store for the right fittings (mix of pipe, flare, and NPT fittings), and it worked perfectly.

Important Note: When connecting to your RV’s BBQ quick-connect, you’re feeding the generator low-pressure propane. That means you remove the high-pressure regulator from Grenergy’s demand regulator. You only need the demand regulator in this setup.

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What This Cost Me

  • Grenergy Conversion Kit: ~$350
  • EU2200i Vented Cover: ~$50
  • Propane Hose & Fittings: ~$40

Total: About $440

Alternative: Sell my Honda for $500, buy a Champion dual-fuel for $600. Net cost: $100 more, but I’d have a louder, less reliable generator.

My choice: Keep ole reliable. Never deal with gasoline again. Worth every penny.

Why This Matters For Your RV

This mod changes how you use your generator:

Before:

  • Store gasoline in your RV (smells, goes bad, safety concern)
  • Drain carb before storage
  • Haul gas cans when camping
  • Deal with starting issues after sitting

After:

  • Run off your RV’s main propane tanks
  • No fuel storage or carb maintenance
  • Start easily every time
  • One less thing to worry about

Bottom Line

I couldn’t be happier with this conversion. Grenergy solved the problems that kept other kits from working on early Honda generators, and their product just works.

I don’t promote products I don’t use. This one has come through for me, and I think it will for you too – especially if you have an early-model Honda that you thought couldn’t be converted.

UPDATE: Grenergy reached out asking permission to link to this article. I said yes. I have no business relationship with them – I just bought their product and it works.


Parts & Resources

What You Need:

  • Grenergy Honda EU2000i Conversion Kit
  • Optional: EU2200i vented cover (or install vents yourself)
  • If connecting to RV propane: 1/2″ ID propane hose with quick-connect

Where to Buy:

  • Grenergy: Visit their website
  • Propane hose: Amazon or RV supply stores
  • Fittings: Local hardware store (True Value, Ace, etc.)

Disclaimer: I purchased all products mentioned in this article. I have no affiliation with Honda or Grenergy. This writeup is based on my experience after completing this modification.

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